02-11-2013, 10:24 AM
Winterizing Your Boat In California
Posted on October 23, 2012
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I was recently asked a very good question by my friend, Dave
Mendrin. He said, “Jeff, I know you are the kind of guy that likes to
keep the fuel tanks full and the boat ready at all times, but what about
the guys that want to store their boats for the winter?” Great
question Dave, but the answer is not far off base from what I’ve said
before.
Winterizing is a common practice in places where freezing
temperatures occur, and winter is the time of year when you simply
cannot use your boat. We experience neither of these things here in
California, at least not Southern California. Hard core winterizing is
the practice of preparing the boat for storage by removing or replacing
the boats fluids with something that won’t freeze. Its expensive,
complicated and time consuming. The cost of living is very high here in
So. Cal., no need to add to your yearly expenses.
What I see most guys do after a fishing trip is pretty close to
winterizing. Wash the boat and trailer, grease the bearings on the
trailer, flush the engine with fresh water and run the fuel out of the
engine. For most guys and our short winter, that is enough for a couple
months of storage. There are ways to take it to the next level, and
you might be glad you did.
I’d say the #1 cause of grief on boats that have sat for long periods
of time is dead or overcharged batteries. Get yourself a fancy trickle
charger and a timer. Set the timer to come on once a week for an hour
or so and trickle charge the batteries. A solar panel can be a great
trickle charger if the boat is stored outdoors. The best answer is to
make yourself stop by the boat once a week to run the engines for a
short while with fresh water running through them.
Next in the line of concerns is the fuel and fuel system. Gasoline
is less stable than diesel, so those of you with outboards or gas
inboards need to take special care when storing your boat. Remove the
fuel line leading into the engine and run the engine until it runs out
of gas. On an inboard, you may have to remove the fuel line at the
filter to do this, as closing the valve simply creates a vacuum but
doesn’t let the fuel run out of the system. Its my opinion that the
fuel tank should be full during storage, and an empty (or partially
empty) tank will get condensation and moisture on the inside when the
weather cools and warms. Water in your fuel is not a good thing, and
the bare walls of you fuel tank will become covered in mold, algae and
other filter clogging growth. No, fuel additives will not solve the
problem when its time to get the boat out of storage.
Flushing the engine with fresh water is great, but flushing it with
Salt-X or Salt-Away is better when you are planning on storing the boat.
Say what you want about WD-40 but I like the stuff, and my outboard is
covered with it when I don’t have plans to get back out anytime soon.
Another great product is CRC Corrosion Inhibitor. I spray the actual
engine with the stuff, and all my electronic connections and battery
posts. I do this when the boat is new, or after any work has been done.
It smells bad and leaves a honey like wax residue, but you’ll be glad
you sprayed it on 10 years down the line. The stuff is amazing.
In a typical year we have lobster hoop netting to do around the 1st
of the year and some exploratory seabass trips. By March 1st rock cod
is open and seabass season is right around the corner. By spring we are
fishing seabass and yellows full speed, until the first kelp paddy
yellows shows up. From there its tuna and sand bass for the summer.
Then in fall we get the fall halibut spawn and hoop netting for lobster
begins. Then Christmas comes around and some harbor lights cruises are
in order. So you tell me, when exactly were you planning on storing
your boat? Yea, I didn’t think so.
Let God lead the way!
Give a man a fish he eats for one day, teach him to fish he eats forever!
Give a man a fish he eats for one day, teach him to fish he eats forever!
